Fat Dads Kitchen, The Gallimaufry: 'Burgers with a backstory worthy of an instant Netflix commission'

Paul Clifford has overcome great adversity to follow his dream and we are all the better for it

August is Burger Month at The Sauce, and we’re kicking things off with a review from Harry, who’s been getting stuck into one of Bristol’s finest. Fat Dads has just rolled up to The Gallimaufry — presumably because, in true Bristol fashion, their bright yellow school bus Betty has finally conked out. But whether flipping patties in a pub, a van, or a permanent home-to-be, the spirit of Fat Dads is very much alive — and still slinging serious smash burgers.

We’ll be rounding up Bristol’s best burgers at the end of the month, so if you’ve got beef with our list — or a tip-off worth biting into — slide into our DMs.

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Who could pass such a seductive sign?

Burger names have gone too far. No self-respecting adult should have to go through the ordeal of locking eyes over a counter and asking for a Reverse Cowgirl and a Load Me Up Daddy unless in very specific circumstances.

It’s tough reviewing a burger joint — hence resorting to sexual innuendo in the first para. You see, at some point the burger Illuminati decided that all burger places should look and feel the same, which makes it tricky to write anything genuinely interesting or original.

Fortunately Paul Clifford AKA the Fat Dad has made my life easy. Yes, he’s still fallen prey to ludicrous naming conventions in parts — does anyone really want a Ring Of Fire? — but he had the guts to start his business in a converted American school bus named Betty and he’s got a backstory worthy of an instant Netflix commission.

After 20 years in pharmaceuticals, Paul was diagnosed with prostate cancer. Over three gruelling years of treatment, mental health challenges, and medication-induced facial swelling — which, if there was any silver lining to cancer, inspired the name “Fat Dads” — he realised it was time to follow his dream of working in hospitality.

He cut his teeth in some of the most prestigious kitchens around — Ottolenghi in London, and even Wilsons here in Bristol — before launching his own pop-up in July 2022. Initially serving Middle Eastern food (very good by all accounts) he switched to burgers in 2023. His creations have satisfied many a hungry Bristolian and just a year later made him a National Burger Awards finalist. His journey and glowing reputation convinced me to shelve any remaining burger cynicism and give it a proper try when he took up residence at The Gallimaufry.

Fat Dads has built its name on a small but diverse menu and inventive specials — the aforementioned Ring of Fire swaps a bun for a doughnut. The special on offer this visit caught my eye: the ‘Wise Guy’, inspired by Anthony Bourdain’s favourite sandwich. A single or double smashed beef patty, American cheese, fried mortadella, provolone picante, Dijon mustard mayo, rocket, and pickled onions (£12.50 single, £14.50 double), all housed in a soft, sesame-flecked milk bun. As a lifelong Bourdain fan it was an obvious choice.

We can all hope to be immortalised in burger form

Somewhere, Bourdain is probably chain-smoking and side-eyeing the fact his legacy now includes a burger being eaten in the epitome of hipster-dom. As I ate, I surveyed a scene of jort-wearing, skinny-cigarette-smoking, hungover Bloody Mary-drinking Bristol Uni students earnestly discussing 19th-century French literature. Nearby, “cool” parents in rolled beanies, flannel shirts, and patchwork jackets were deep in conversation about ‘mindful parenting’.

As for the ‘Wise Guy’ itself — I was torn. The flavours lacked synchronicity. As much as I love both ingredients, the saltiness of the mortadella along with the piquant provolone dominated the palate. On the other hand, the quality of each individual element was undeniable. The beef patty was excellent — juicy, rich, and beautifully seared, with the peppery rocket and pickled onions cutting through the fat nicely. I’m all for experiments, but honestly — this one would be better off left in the sandwich realm.

Easy on the eyes, less so on the tongue

Remember on The X Factor when a contestant would sing the wrong song, and Simon Cowell would rudely interrupt, demanding they switch it up — and suddenly it was a hit? That’s how I felt.

Ding ding — time for round two. Playing it safe, I opted for the Schmokie: double patties with bacon, dill pickle, and chilli mayo (£14). My first bite oozed sauce straight onto my freshly washed white trousers, much to the amusement of the staff who came to the rescue with napkins. Stained trousers aside, the flavour was undeniably good.

The double patties were again beautifully caramelised, each bite delivering an umami-rich, beefy punch that was dangerously addictive. The sauce was masterfully balanced — chilli heat, salty bacon and pickle, and a sharp tang of dill that brought the whole thing together.

As Tony said “your body is not a temple, it's an amusement park”. Amen.

Now I understand how Fat Dads became a national finalist.

As is annoyingly the norm these days, fries are extra. I ordered rosemary salted fries (£4.50) and a side of black garlic mayo (£1.50). There’s no need to overstate things: the chips were crisp, hot, and properly seasoned. Solid. The black garlic mayo, however, was something special — complex, sweet, caramelised, and good enough to have me licking the pot clean.

These, plunged into black garlic mayo, almost brought a tear to my eye

Paul’s story is truly inspiring. Overcoming adversity to chase a dream is the ethos behind the kitchen and it shows in every burger. Fat Dads will be looking for a more permanent home after the pop-up and I sincerely hope they find one — for the sake of everyone yet to taste those burgers.

I left full, inspired, and dangerously close to giving corporate life the middle finger and swapping the foothills of Clifton for beach days in Zihuatanejo repairing old fishing boats. If you don’t hear from me again, that’s where I’ll be.

All words and photos by Harry Hughes

Fat Dads Kitchen, currently in residence at The Gallimaufry, 26-28 Gloucester Rd, BS7 8AL

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