1 York Place: 'A restaurant fit for royalty'

Warning: contains spoilers for season 6 of The Crown

I am not the first to write about 1 York Place, nor will I be the last. It’s no wonder that this particular corner of Clifton was inundated with journos and the like from the second the doors were opened; unless something went seriously wrong 1 York Place was set to be the opening of the year. A late entry to the competition but ultimately the one we’ve all been waiting for. Freddy and Nessa Bird have swooped in, days before we tumble into 2024, and stolen the crown.

There are distinct similarities between York Place and Little French, the older and more established sibling, though at York Place the menu reads less like a francophile’s wishlist and more like a well-stocked butcher’s counter.

When he inevitably visits, Jay Rayner will love this place. Pig, pig and more pig. He’s right. It is the best meat. In fact I can think of a lot of people who will love this place, which is good because many visits will be required to truly assess the rather exhaustive menu. I know, it’s a hard job etc. etc.

I’ve been watching the final season of The Crown recently. What’s that got to do with restaurants? Very little really, but I was almost as sad when we finished York Place’s deep fried flatbread (£7) as I was when Diana died. Just didn’t see it coming. And just like Camilla, the winter tomatoes with smoked pork belly (£7) just couldn’t compete, though they were very tasty.

Remember when bar snacks meant peanuts and pork scratchings? Not any more

I should point out that I’m not an ardent royalist, but I am an ardent fan of that flatbread. I would quite happily queue for 10 miles to eat it again. In fact, I should have ordered another for dessert - the creamy stracciatella, sweet chestnut honey and truffle that straddled what was effectively a savoury doughnut would be just as fitting at the end of a meal as at the start.

Tempted to copy my peers and write my top ten dishes of the year, purely so I can include this

I enjoyed the delicate crab spaghettini (£12.50) but would’ve rather the layers of buttery crab were supported by something with a bit more heft, linguine perhaps. Spaghettini is too thin, too perilously close to not existing at all. Fried lamb sweetbreads (£12.50), like a young Prince Harry, were a little lost - overshadowed by the salsa verde they were sat on and encased in just a bit too much batter. Keep them away from the fancy dress shops and I’m sure they’ll grow up just fine.

Pasta dishes as starters would very much feature on my dream menu

Slow cooked ox cheek in a PX sauce (£24) is very rich, the sweet sauce more of a glaze for each mouthful of ox that gives up any semblance of structure as soon as it sees the fork. It’s by far the best of the two mains, partly on its own merit but also because the hake in mussel broth (£24) is the food equivalent of getting socks and deodorant for Christmas. Underwhelming.

Freddy Bird sure knows how to make a good sauce

The two plates are passed back and forth across the table at least five times but that’s okay because at York Place sharing is encouraged. I’ve got an envious eye on the table next to us who have the entire cast of the Little Mermaid between them on a platter, upgraded from swimming in the sea to a puddle of tarragon, garlic and parsley butter. £100 well spent it would seem.

I would’ve much rather had the neighbours’ seafood platter than this prosaic pesce

Chocolate and dulche de leche tart with coffee cream (£8.50) is a much stronger ending than Lizzie walking out of St George’s Chapel with Olivia Colman and Claire Foy in tow. The touch of bitter coffee complements the dark chocolate and brings round the startingly sweet dulche de leche just right.

One cannot declare oneself royal, but one can declare oneself a lover of tart. And even he rated it

So it would seem that an evening spent in the belly of York Place is an evening well spent.

Royalty is not made by declaring itself royal. Royalty, whether you approve of it or not, is built on history, legacy, familial ties and, back in the day, being good in battle. Freddy and Nessa Bird have created an empire with all of these things and for once an empire we can be proud of. So they may only be the opening of the year for another 7 days, but God save 1 York Place. Long may you reign over us, glorious and victorious.

Words and photos by Meg Houghton-Gilmour

1 York Place, Clifton, BS8 1AH